Women's Civilian Impression Guidelines, Citizens of Sharpsburg, 165th Antietam

A tidy appearance appropriate to a woman's age, occupation, economic circumstances, and social station was expected during the period.

The goal is not extravagance.

The goal is an appropriately dressed woman of the Sharpsburg community in September 1862.


Dresses

Dresses must be constructed from natural fibers appropriate to the period, including:

  • Cotton
  • Linen
  • Wool
  • Silk

Fabric must utilize a weave and pattern documented to the period.

Garments must be constructed using appropriate period techniques. Machine sewing, hand sewing, or a historically appropriate combination of both are acceptable.

Closures

Acceptable closures include:

  • Hooks and eyes
  • Period-appropriate buttons

Buttons must be documented to the period and appropriate to both the garment and the wearer's social station.

Collars and cuffs are strongly encouraged. Removable collars and cuffs were both practical and an important part of maintaining the tidy appearance expected during the mid-19th century.


Adult Women's Silhouette

Adult women's skirts should be appropriately full and may be:

  • Cartridge pleated
  • Regularly pleated

Skirts should reach no more than approximately four inches above the ground.

The waistline should sit at the wearer's natural waist.

Shoulder seams should fall slightly beyond the natural shoulder.

The overall silhouette is extremely important to creating an accurate impression.


Cotton Dresses

Cotton dresses must represent styles supported by current research.

Preferred

  • Gathered bodice
  • Pleated bodice
  • Bishop sleeves
  • Coat sleeves

Any applied trim should be appropriate to a cotton dress, with self-trim preferred.

Cotton dresses must use either:

  • A documented reproduction print, or
  • A pattern that can be documented to the period.

Not Accepted

  • Solid-colored cotton dresses where inappropriate to the documented style
  • Modern quilting prints
  • Cotton dresses constructed in styles intended for wool or silk
  • Historically unsupported trim

Sheer Cotton, Wool & Silk Dresses

Appropriate fabrics may be:

  • Solid
  • Plaid
  • Documented period prints

Appropriate sleeves for wool or silk dresses may include:

  • Pagoda sleeves
  • Coat sleeves
  • Bishop sleeves

Wool and silk bodices may be darted.

All trim must be documented to the period in:

  • Style
  • Pattern
  • Material

White Waists

White waists or blouses must be made from appropriate fine cotton or silk.

They should follow construction similar to a period cotton-dress bodice and have:

  • A finished bottom edge
  • Proper fitting at the natural waist

When worn with a separate skirt, that skirt should be constructed from appropriate:

  • Wool, or
  • Silk

The skirt may be solid, plaid, or constructed from a documented period print and must have a proper waistband.

Not Accepted

  • Modern white blouses tucked into a skirt
  • Modern blouses with modern attached collars
  • White modern cotton blouses paired with cotton skirts

Women's Clothing Not Accepted

The following are not appropriate for this event:

  • Ball gowns
  • Evening gowns
  • Open-neckline evening dresses
  • Polyester dresses
  • Synthetic-fiber dresses
  • Gathered drawstring skirts
  • Modern quilting-print dresses
  • Modern white blouses
  • Military clothing
  • Military accessories

Civilian women are portraying civilians, not soldiers with civilian dresses.


Hoops & Petticoats

Hoops were fashionable during this period and are appropriate.

Hoops should be round and generally fall within approximately:

90–110 inches circumference

Layered petticoats are also acceptable where appropriate to the impression.

The hoop should create the proper silhouette without becoming exaggerated.


Women's Underpinnings

A properly fitted corset is expected for adult women unless medically prohibitive.

Appropriate underpinnings include:

  • White cotton chemise
  • Drawers
  • Petticoats
  • Cotton stockings
  • Wool stockings

Stockings should extend above the knee.

White cotton petticoats should be worn over the hoop to soften the silhouette and prevent individual hoop bones from showing prominently through the dress.

Wool or quilted petticoats may be added as necessary for warmth.

Not Accepted as Period Underpinnings

  • Sweatpants
  • Bicycle shorts
  • Yoga pants
  • T-shirts
  • Sports bras
  • Modern socks

Women's Hair

Hair must be arranged and contained in an appropriate period manner.

A center part is expected.

Hair should be dressed up rather than hanging loose and uncontrolled.

Not Accepted

  • Modern hairstyles
  • Heavy woven reenactor "snoods"
  • Scrunchies
  • Modern headbands
  • Loose, uncontrolled hair
  • Other obviously modern hair accessories

Women's Headwear

Appropriate women's headwear may include:

  • Bonnets
  • Fine straw hats
  • Silk bonnets
  • Corded bonnets
  • Slat bonnets
  • Other documented period headwear appropriate to the impression

All headwear must be made from appropriate materials and constructed according to period examples.

Not Accepted

  • Modern hats
  • Modern headbands
  • Scrunchies
  • Heavy woven snoods
  • Other historically inappropriate headwear

Women's Gloves

Appropriate gloves may be constructed from:

  • Silk
  • Thin leather

Gloves should be of colors appropriate to the period.

Mid-19th-century gloves were generally wrist length and closely fitted.

Not Accepted

Modern gloves of any kind.


Women's Footwear

Shoes should be constructed according to period styles and materials and should generally feature the appropriate squared-toe profile.

Appropriate footwear may include:

  • Low walking shoes
  • Boots
  • Mules
  • Period rain shoes

Not Accepted

  • Modern shoes
  • Modern boots
  • "Period-looking" boots with modern zippers

Women's Accessories

Appropriate personal accessories may include:

  • Parasols
  • Period jewelry
  • Pocket watches
  • Neck bows
  • Travel cases
  • Walking sticks
  • Other documented personal items

Accessories should correspond to the individual's age, occupation, economic circumstances, and social station.

Not Accepted

  • Battenberg parasols
  • Ponytail cameos
  • Modern jewelry
  • Modern eyewear
  • Other anachronistic accessories

Women's Outerwear & Warm Layers

Outer garments should be constructed primarily from appropriate natural fibers such as wool and silk.

Appropriate outerwear includes:

  • Paletots
  • Mantles
  • Wool sontags
  • Period-pattern shawls
  • Appropriate umbrellas with wooden handles and black coverings

Trim must be appropriate to the garment and period.

Not Accepted

  • Modern raincoats
  • Sweatshirts
  • Modern flannel lounge pants
  • Modern T-shirts used as visible underlayers
  • Acrylic-yarn garments
  • Modern synthetic fabrics

Remember that modern underlayers have a habit of becoming visible when bending, sitting, working, or moving.

Keep It Believable

There will be no outrageous hats, dresses, excessive embellishments, or theatrical impressions.

The objective is not to attract attention by wearing the most unusual thing that technically existed during the 1860s.

We are attempting to recreate a small Maryland community.

Participants should look like real people—not caricatures of the 19th century.


Modern Items

Modern intrusions significantly damage an immersive event and will not be tolerated within the historical setting.

The following must not be visible:

  • Modern eyeglasses
  • Cell phones
  • Modern tobacco products
  • Modern lighters
  • Modern beverage or food containers
  • Modern watches
  • Modern clothing
  • Modern footwear except approved medical accommodations
  • Modern hair accessories
  • Colored nail polish
  • Other obviously modern personal items

Participants should make every reasonable effort to conceal modern tattoos.

Piercings beyond historically appropriate earlobe piercings should be removed or concealed.


Cell Phones

Cell phones have become a significant problem at otherwise high-quality immersive events.

If you must carry a phone for emergency reasons, it must remain on silent and completely concealed.

Phones shall not be used within the historical area.

If use is absolutely necessary, participants should move to:

  • A restroom
  • A designated modern area
  • Another location completely segregated from the historical event

A cell phone appearing in the middle of an 1862 civilian scene immediately destroys the experience for everyone around you.


Conduct & Immersion

Public drunkenness will not be tolerated.

Modern political discussions, current events, and excessive modern conversation should remain outside the historical experience.

When participating in first-person programming:

It is September 1862.

Allow yourself—and everyone around you—to experience that world.

Leave modern politics and modern events at home.


Famous-Person Impressions

This event will not feature impressions of famous 19th-century personalities within the civilian contingent.

Participants who normally portray a famous historical figure are absolutely welcome to attend.

However, for this event, you must develop or adapt your impression into that of an ordinary citizen of Sharpsburg or the surrounding community.

The focus is on the people whose names rarely appear in history books.

Farmers.

Merchants.

Laborers.

Mothers.

Children.

Tradesmen.

Widows.

Church members.

Neighbors.

Families.

These were the people who suddenly found one of the largest battles of the Civil War unfolding around their homes.


The Standard

The civilian component should feel like a community—not a collection of reenactors wearing civilian clothing.

Every participant should have a reason for being there.

Every garment should make sense for the person wearing it.

Every possession should tell us something about that individual.

And every interaction should help tell the larger story.

For the citizens of Sharpsburg, September 1862 was not a military exercise or a weekend event.

It was their home.

Thousands of strangers suddenly filled their roads and fields.

Soldiers appeared at their doors.

Food, livestock, water, and supplies were demanded or purchased.

Rumors traveled faster than reliable information.

Families had no way of knowing where the armies would fight—or whether their homes would stand between them.

Then came the sound of artillery.

Then the musketry.

And the battle moved closer.

Our goal is to give participants the opportunity to experience a small part of that uncertainty while portraying the resilience, fear, determination, and everyday lives of the citizens who endured the Battle of Antietam.


Questions & Impression Assistance

We want participants to succeed.

If you have questions concerning your impression, clothing, appropriate materials, construction, vendors, or where to obtain high-quality living history clothing and equipment, please contact:

Amy Debord

or

Michele Shuman

Participants are strongly encouraged to ask questions before purchasing new clothing or equipment.

We would much rather help you build the right impression from the beginning than have you spend money on something that cannot be approved for the event.